Sumatra part 2

On the Volcano, day 13

This morning we met a guide who took Edy and us to Sibayak Volcano. We hiked straight up for about an hour. As we climbed, the scenery around us changed from lush jungle to scraggly plants, and finally to grey volcanic rock. Sibayak Volcano hasn’t erupted for 400 years, but it has many signs of life. Including hot sulfur smelling gas pouring out of cracks and holes near the top and hot water spots where water is literally boiling in a pool on the Volcano. As we reached the top, we were getting pretty close to several gas leaks and Jeremy said to the guide, “should I take a picture now, or will we get closer?” She said, “Oh you will get closer”. As we got closer and closer (!) the force of the hot air rushing from the cracks is so loud it sounds like a jet plane taking off. Eventually we were literally beside the cracks and you could hardly talk it was so loud. We could see the florescent green/yellow sulfur crystals accumulating by the crack and of course it smelled like rotten eggs. The sky was crystal clear so our views were amazing, but the wind was wicked. I was more than just a little concerned that I might fly off the side of the volcano the gusts of wind were so intense! The rocks were all rough and sharp and many were still formed together in a huge solid piece of hardened lava. When we finally got to the top, we were surprised to see how big the crater of the volcano was and that there were so many gas leaks. Our guide told us that as long as a volcano is venting the inside pressure via these gas leaks, everything is okay. The people can predict when a volcano will erupt because they stop leaking a few days before they blow! This news was only mildly comforting. To see the force of the air coming out of these holes, to know there is a hollow, hot center of the mountain were standing on, to be pushed by the wind-to be reminded of how small you are in the face of nature…The whole experience was slightly terrifying. Luckily, we climbed off the really steep edge of the top; I started to breath like a normal person.

We hiked out through beautiful bamboo forests, a different direction than we had climbed before. At the end of our hiking, we stopped at a place that pipes hot water off the volcano into pools (hot springs). The place had 7 different pools all with varying temperatures. The hottest pools are filled right from the pipe off the volcano while the other pools are in contact with the air for different lengths of time to cool the water. It was so nice; especially since that was the closest thing we have had to a warm shower in days.

Lake Toba

Then we drove 4 more hours, and caught a 30-minute ferry ride to Lake Toba. Lake Toba is the biggest crater lake in the world, and even I (having been raised on lake Erie and expecting “great” lake-size) was surprised at how massive the lake it. The initial crater was formed by a volcanic explosion (some estimate it was the largest volcanic explosion ever) several thousand years ago, so the lake is surrounded with the remaining jagged edges of the top of the volcano (which look like mountains..think: BEAUTIFUL). We are staying on the island in the center of the lake, which is also VERY large. Our driver said it takes a whole day to drive the perimeter of this lake. We are staying 30 minutes from the ferry and basically, got to our lodge (were grateful for the intermittent hot water in the shower), grabbed a quick bite to eat and went to bed. LONG DAY!

Day 14

This morning, we got to sleep in until 7:30am! Then we went to tour some of the local area and visit the Baytak museum. The Baytak people are the natives of Indonesia who were cannibals (eating only of male criminals) until the early 1900s when European missionaries introduced the island to Christianity. Once converted, the people stopped eating their criminals….but apparently still eat dogs (cooked of course). They live in these really interesting looking “long houses” and have a very separate culture than the rest of Indonesia. We got to see them doing traditional dances and hear about their customs. What was most surprising was that the rest of Indonesia (the non-Baytak people) really respects their natives. The Baytak are known throughout the rest of the country as “Strong and straight” people who have some of the most important jobs in the country…like being the government’s lawyers, doctors, etc.

After our cultural morning, we stopped at this random place and ordered “Grilled fish”. Apparently Lake Toba is known for its excellent fish. I tell you, this grilled fish was the best thing we’ve had in A LONG TIME. We literally licked the bones clean….and much to my amazement, it wasn’t spicy! One of the first meals I’ve eaten all week that didn’t leave my nose running! *they did serve the fish with ridiculously spicy sauce on the side, which Jeremy was brave enough to eat. After lunch we came back to our lodge and went swimming in the lake. There is no shore where we are so we literally had to jump off the sidewalk (or makeshift diving board) into the lake. How nice to have an afternoon to just swim and sit outside.

Tonight will be our last night in Indonesia, we leave for the ferry tomorrow morning at 9am, then a 5+ hour ride back to Medan, and eventually to a plane to Singapore at 8:30pm tomorrow night. Because we are ahead of EST, we will actually lose a day returning home and should be home sometime Monday late morning. We aren’t looking forward to the long trip home, but we have experienced so much in these past 18 days that it will be good to have time to savor our experiences and recapture our favorite moments.

Check back Tuesday for some more pictures and a short video to tide you over until we get a chance to see you!